such a nice day out this day.
charles watkins, the accidental everything
today started off with a phenomenal sunrise. The cloud deck was pretty low and consisted of a solid unyeilding gray which was equitably balanced by the sea's mirror likeness of it. And thinly exposed between the two was a band of pink and yellow streaks right at the horizon that lasted for quite a while. It made for some nice pics. Unfortunately however, i was unable to catch pics of the multiple schools of playing dolphins that were within just yards of me. there were so many of them playing aboot right in front of the pier here, that i took a moment to watch their antics. It constituted one of the only times i have listened that closely to the breathing of sea mammals and rally put the icing on the cake for today.
today was not quite as nice. A heavy fog came through the region today spilling out off the continent and into the sea and swallowing up all the ships. It was pretty dramatic and beaitfully grey. but despite the drama it ended up being very calm with barely no wind at'all and hardly no waves to speak of.
Inside Los Taverna... Apparantly, this tavern has been around a while. From talking about it today at lunch, Mike, an Eco employee and occaisional ship's captain, told me a quick story where Shakleton himself came to this very pub when he FINALLY made it back to Chile after his harrowing trip back across the Drake Passage in his 26' boat amidst his attempt to reach civilization after having the HMS Endurance sunk by ice flow. He apparantly was so overwhelmed by the noise, that he drew his pistol and shot into the cieling to queit the crowd. After his short stay here in PA he had commisioned a boat to assist in the resuce of the rest of his crew who were still patiently marooned on Elephant Island.
And here is the purveyor of the malty beverage i so craved for earlier in the day. This is the Hotel Noguiera. This is the building i mentioned a couple of posts ago, being the first brick and morter anything in PA. Its a stunning building from any angle. The tavern is located in the basemet and is decorated in reclaimed historic ship furnishings. Next slide...
This is the central statue depicted in the last photo. It is emblazoned on 4 sides with PA's story. This one has a resting native sitting above the imprint of Magellanes' ship. This essentially marks the crossroads of culture in that oh so familiar transition from indigenous inhabitance to European settlement. Hernando Magellanes was a Portuguese maritime explorer who led the first successful attempt to circumnavigate the Earth. He came around and through these straights in 1520 which he called the 'All Saints Channel' at the time. Next slide...
...And then you come to the central plaza or just 'the square' to the locals. This is essentialy town center for as far as i know. Just beyond the center statues is the first brick building ever established in PA. This park possesses that certain magic capable of dramatically transforming the walk from the pier through town to a completely different place and time. You are suddenly thrust into a Mid-Western American small town park complete with autumn's smell and comfortable lustre.
Yesterday was a long and fitful day spent toiling in the belly of the Linux beast. I knew at about lunchtime that by days end, i would need a beer. Alcohol is not permitted on the ship at any time, which put together with my upcoming interest in a frosty barley pop, meant that there was going to be some adventure in my evening's plans. PA is a town of many tactile feels to it. In some areas it feels like any port town i've seen, with rugged industrial seafronts and the rugged people who staff them. Then a quick walk down a few blocks renders the following setting. This photo depicts one of the older streets just outside 'the square.' next slide...
Lovely Punta Arenas offers stunning views of... grey. miles and miles of grey. Acres and Acres of verdant and carefully cultured grey. Grey like no where else in the world. Brilliant.
...into the bright lights of the big city that is Punta Arenas. Today's weather was a study of change. This morning was impeccably calm and warm. I stood on the ice tower's outer railings (90 feet up) and enjoyed the sun's rays with only a t-shirt and jeans. Excited at the prospect of a lunchtime outing, i prepared for an early lunch (90 minutes later) camera in hand... only to be greeted with grey skies and chilling wind. And then, later this afternoon... the weather broke and managed to produce the beautiful sunset below. enjoi, and as always, thanks for reading. peace.